Getting Wierd - Going to Austin

We had originally thought to head straight to Austin, and miss San Antonio, but David had read Mitchener’s 'Texas' shortly before we left NZ, and the history of the place made it seem more interesting to visit. Of course, the old layout is completely absorbed by the growth and development over the subsequent couple of hundred years, and all that is left are the bits that have been preserved for historical reasons and for the tourist trade.

The Alamo is only a shadow of the original, with the mission and parts of the barracks walls remaining. We were a bit disappointed, but then it doesn’t mean as much to us as it does to Americans, who grow up with intimate details of the events and their importance to the nation as a whole. We can draw a parallel here to the importance in New Zealand of Waitangi and the Treaty. It’s just something we have in our blood. Clearly, the Alamo is very much the same for Americans.

Outside The Alamo, David spotted a couple of local cops on bikes, and asked if he could take a photo. Only one agreed. It was interesting to see their solution to mobility in a busy city environment. Jason, (who usually rides to work) you are obviously ahead of the play in NZ. But it must be very hot riding a bike in 30+ deg wearing a Kevlar vest (interesting that this guy isn't wearing his) and all that equipment. Somehow, the image of him blue-lighting it down the road is not very compelling.

And on the Austin… The first thing you find out about Austin is that it is weird, and they want to keep it that way!

Austin is touted as the Country, Blues and Jazz capital of the world. Certainly there is a lot going on there. We found that the scene is split into two separate layers: the city scene, with it’s loud and busy venues; and the more suburban scene which is quieter and more laid-back, and where the music may be supplementary to a restaurant, bar or the like. Neither scene seems to have a monopoly on the big names and polished performers. Some of the suburban venues host some of the biggest names, and some others have some pretty mediocre performers. We missed seeing Willie Nelson at one place by a week – also Dolly Parton - bugger!

Along the way we have been staying in a mix of RV Parks and freedom camping (boondocking or dry camping) at places like Wal-Mart or truck stops like Flying J. But in Austin, we had our first refusals at Wal-Mart. In one place, when Sharman went in to check, they said that they don’t allow RVs to stay in the carpark any longer because too many people have died in their RVs. Yeah, right! It might be contagious, ha ha! The next place we tried said that they have stopped it because some people had been doing oil-changes in the carpark and left a huge mess with oil everywhere. We later found out that some stores are leased, and the landowners may have a restriction in the contract that means that Wal-Mart cannot extend their hospitality to RVers at that store. But it does seems to make more sense if they just said so, rather than trying to invent some fanciful story. Certainly we would find it much more convincing. Whatever; we ended up staying at a Sam’s Club - a Wal-Mart subsidiary that sells bulk product to members at discount rates.

As Austin was fondly referred to as ‘party city’ in the tourist information, we decided to go out and sample the nightlife. Surrounding the CBD there are little streets with funky little shops. The atmosphere was quite unique. What a great place to sit and people watch. All the sights and sounds of a town that also have their share of celebrities living and owning businesses there. Despite the obvious wealth and fashion; there was also another side. There were so many people sitting on the streets and at corners of major intersections begging. It was very difficult to differentiate who was genuine and who was not. Someone we spoke to suggested they were all members of a Union – who knows. But Sharman has had to learn to look the other way.

One warm, balmy night we decided to go and watch the bats come out and feed from under the bridge. Something like 1.5 million bats have found a home in the joints and crevices of a bridge over Lady Bird Lake in the middle of downtown when it was renovated in the 1960s. The council initially tried to exterminate them, thinking they were dangerous. But eventually sanity prevailed and they are now protected. Austin City Bats Info

We ended up waiting hours sitting on the grass, along with hundreds of others. As the time approached for these little critters (a popular American word) to take flight; a feeling of excitement and anticipation filtered through the crowd. Well, what a let down. It turned out to be extremely difficult to see them in the dark, and if David hadn’t gone back to the car to get his little torch, then it would all have been for nothing. So, thanks David for everyone there getting a looksee. In the photo, you can just make out the bats under the bridge by the light of the torch.

OK, that's all for now.  See you later...